Thursday, July 9, 2009

Dubbo

For a number of years I had passed through Dubbo, either going to or returning from somewhere. It had been literally of passing interest, but had gained more after the establishment of its open plains zoo. It had been of more interest since Werribee (my home of twenty-five years) gained its open range zoo. The final reason which made me decide to visit was an incident in New York last year. I had just got off the train form Washington and had to find which train to take to get to the hotel I had booked into. While enquiring, I heard another Australian accent – and the owner heard mine. Miki, who was going to a hotel near mine, was from dub and it pained me to admit that I had only passed through.
Now, well over a year later, I had a few days and made the decision to visit. It was confirmed when an ex-student who I had got back in touch with emailed me that she and her husband had returned from overseas with their newly-adopted son.
I left home on Sunday afternoon, having repacked DOUG for the trip. I took the opportunity to call into a friend’s place in Shepparton to drop off a bib – to see if it would do the job required of it. As it turned out, Cyril was awake and recognised me, Fizzy put the bib on and was delighted, and I had a good discussion with her son, who was visiting. As I intended to be in the Blue Mountains in the morning, I departed in the early evening.
I let the TomTom SatNav do the planning for me, so headed over to the Hume Freeway and was vert soon through Albury. Night had come and then I entered into the nearly 125 kilometres of roadworks along the Hume. Changing speed limits, altering lanes and poor markings were topped off by semi-trailers and B-doubles well and truly exceeding the speed limits and tailgating me. After a few stops along the way, I pulled off at a stop not far south of Goulburn. I put the radio on, wrapped up in a blanket and leaned back on a pillow, then dropped off to sleep.
Memo to self – check the forecast and when the temperature is to be below zero, use a track suit and sleeping bag, if sleeping in the car.
After waking a few times, wondering why my feet had no feeling, I set off again at just before 0700. I arrived in the suburbs of Sydney and found somewhere to have breakfast, then to refuel. It was a good run to the Blue Mountains then, as I was going against the traffic (up until then I was going with the traffic and it was fairly heavy). Within ten minutes or so of arrival at my ex-student’s place, I called to warn/prepare them.
I arrived around 0930. Fortunately they were up. I got to meet hubby (Simon) and new son. After a quick admiration of Morris Minors, it was into the house and chatting with Donna. Time went very quickly, as like with other ex-students from my early years, we are of the same generation now. It is amazing how similar stories of the previous generations become.
Nearly two hours passed in what seemed like a few minutes. After immortalising a memory (taking a photo doesn’t quite have the same ring to it) I was on my way. The route TomTom chose for me (the same as Simon and Donna suggested) was very scenic and, despite wanting not to spend time sightseeing along the way, I did stop to admire the scenery a few times.
I arrived in Dubbo just before 1700. I had already selected a motel to stay in, and was able to book in and soon settled in. As Australian motels have toasters, I was able to arrange to have my tea and toast with Vegemite for breakfasts (why aren’t toasters an option in cars?), and then drove to the Information Centre to plan my next day in Dubbo. That would be the Zoo, and it opened at 0900, so the rest of the day would depend on how I went then. On the way back to the motel I got some tea and had that while watching TV and reading up on Dubbo. I did notice that the motel was full (and remained so the next night too).
I woke at 0600 and promptly went back to sleep. I finally rose at 0700 and had my breakfast and then, after showering and dressing, I headed out to the Zoo.
At the Zoo, with an imposing entrance, I was the second in line. Expecting a long wait, I was very surprised to enter at 0830. My YHA card gave me a good discount (I must remember to check what discounts I can get in the future) and within a few minutes I was on the circuit.
There was a large area for each animal group, certainly far better than traditional zoos (including San Diego), but not as large as the open range zoo at home. There were a wide range of animals and they certainly looked to be enjoying their lot well. Resting, grazing and wandering are not like the pacing and irrational behaviour seen in many places. The construction, with moats and fences, combined with small car parks made access easy and photographs devoid of fences in most cases. In common with long-distance travel, we visitors moved in packs and so it was common to meet the same groups in most areas. One, a father and three children from Brisbane, were a frequent co-visitor – and the children got an unexpected lesson when complaining of the cold and I emphasised the importance of layering (and how it had worked for me), and had the father mention that he had said it already but got disdainful replies. I should add that it was quite cool, most likely just above zero at first. One elderly couple had a more adventurous wife, while the more active husband was reluctant to explore around to get the best view of animals.
I spent nearly three hours going around, which for me was a long time. I went to get an ice cream for a late morning tea, saw a peacock strutting in the outdoor cafĂ© area and encountered monkeys near the al fresco area. Memo to self – don’t frame photos on the move when the path is next to a lake!
I left the zoo and had some lunch on the way back to the motel. I parked and then went for a photographic walk around the town. There weren’t many empty shops, there was a wide variety of items available and most people appeared to be friendly. I did notice a beautiful pink building, beloved by my sister. Towards the end of my walk and entering the sports ground, I did notice that someone had removed the point posts and, for some reason, nailed one each across the goal posts.
A pipe band hall grabbed my attention – and reminded me of the remark about Scots gentlemen; those who can play the bagpipes but don’t. It also had a playground, which made me wonder how young the players were.
After a 2·7 kilometre walk (as I was using a GPS to stop me getting lost) I was back at the motel. I read a little, then watched some television. A news item which grabbed my attention was that the population of Dubbo at the time was 40 306 – growing and quite large, surprisingly so for me as a visitor.
After a good night’s sleep I rose earlier and packed, left by 0700 and was out of Dubbo on the Newell Highway. I had assumed that I would continue on route 39 as the quickest way home, but was directed along the Goldfields Way from West Wyalong to then travel on the Hume Freeway. On reflection it most likely was the quickest way, as from just north of Albury to only a few kilometres from home I would travel on freeway conditions all the time. On route 39 I would encounter many towns, corners and lower-standard roads.
I stopped in Albury for lunch and was home about 1700, in plenty of time for my meeting in the evening.
I had managed to catch up with two friends, see different scenery and find that Dubbo was large country town with many attractions including a world-class open zoo. Very enjoyable and I hope to be back on my slower, meandering touring in the future.

Sunday, June 28, 2009

Saturday, June 27, 2009

DOUG

DOUG is my cruising car.
He is a Holden VZ SV6 Commodore (Holden is the local GM company, VZ is the model range, SV6 is a six-cylinder higher-performance engine) sedan with the five-speed automatic transmission. He was first registered on 14 December 2004 and came equipped with five 16" wheels (not four and a space-saver), limited-slip differential, leather interior with side airbags, heavy duty towing pack, tinted windows, two extra power outlets and six-stacker CD player. Since then he has got a flat left-hand mirror (originally convex, useless) and a bull bar with shoo roos and driving lights. Normally he has an electric fridge in the back, behind the driver's seat (to keep drinks and food cool) and a TomTom SatNav on the lower windscreen.
I carry twelve litres of water and twenty-two litres of petrol with me, as well as tools.
He has covered 200 000 kilometres by June 2009, is on his third set of tyres, is capable of at least 240 km/hr (as determined in the Northern Territory before speed limits were erroneously imposed) but can get around eight litres per hundred kilometres (over 35 mpg for those who are older).
He is comfortable for sleeping in, either in a sleeping bag or wrapped in a blanket.
Photos of him are at http://www.flickr.com/photos/dougmullett/sets/72157618907560886/

Birdsville Track

I began my trip from home Friday 18th June, but after a day of checking things, I finally left Adelaide about 10:40 on Sunday 20th. This was not due to sleeping in or spending too long packing, but rather waiting until the Melbourne papers were in and the Newsagent open. I had o good run up the highway to Port Augusta. The Flinders Ranges were on my left (east) for most of the way. They are a very old range, and like peoples’ faces, they are worn down, losing any unique features and appearing in folds. Australia is a very old continent. It has risen up, been eroded down and its soil washed away. It is very large, but sparsely populated away from the few large centres. Many places on maps are settlements with few living there, while others are just roadhouses, with no permanent population.
I called in to Hungry Jack’s at Port Augusta for a late lunch. I left after refuelling DOUG at Shell and headed off up to Marree. The first section was winding, slow and hilly between Port Augusta and Quorn. The road straightened up and was smoother, becoming straighter after Hawker. I stopped here for a comfort break and also to telephone the family in Adelaide (the last place I would have a mobile signal). From there I had a really good run up to Lyndhurst. I was stopped just before Leigh Creek for a random breath test by a police four-wheel-drive headed the other way. The sun set while I was between Lyndhurst and Marree. I was able to get some good photos. I arrived in Marree about 1815 and tried the Drover’s Rest caravan park for a cabin, but it was full due to Lake Eyre flights. The owners were very helpful and pleasant. I headed around to the Marree pub and as soon as I pulled up, I was recognised by all of those outside the hotel from my registration (not licence in Australia) plate. After saying hello, I went into the bar, found that the last room was a single and available, booked in … and found I had left the power adaptor for the laptop computer in Adelaide. That messed up future plans, as I would have to return via Adelaide, when I had wanted to return via Broken Hill and Mildura. After looking around the hotel and speaking to a few others, I retired for the evening.
The next morning I was up early. I knew others had been up because the floorboards creaked, so there was no sneaking around and certainly no anonymous funny business. The facilities were communal, but the water was hot and there was enough. So cleansed of the day before, I dressed for a day out and wandered down to look at the town – before, at and after dawn. I looked at the sunrise and got some atmosphere shots, then looked at the museum and then spoke to some others outside the hotel. A pilot, doing helicopter charters, said he had one seat left for the late morning, and offered it to me at a reduced price, so I agreed to go on that and meet him back at the hotel at 1020 (which is when I thought the flight was to leave, but apparently it was for 1400 – but I found that out later). The charter flights over Lake Eyre from the pub were operated by a company from Phillip Island, Victoria. Well after dawn I wandered around the town again for more photos, then went back and packed up, planning to leave late in the day. By 0900 I ventured further into the town and found the school. Looking at the outside I ran into the woman from the pub who had booked me in the night before – she is a teacher aide at the school. After a quick chat, she invited me to look around – so I did. The senior part of the school had just left to go to Oodnadatta for a sports meeting (for the week!) and the juniors were just having their assembly. I spoke to some other teachers before they went in, photographed more of the school (and the MCG – Marree Cricket Ground) and then wandered back to the pub. Here I found out – that the flight I was going to go on was actually for 1400 and that it had been cancelled. Cutting my losses, I headed out for Birdsville.
The first section was sealed (bitumen) – for around one hundred metres. Then it became unsealed. Technically it was formed earth, as no extra material (gravel, bluestone) had been placed on the surface. A grader had simply gathered the soil together, then made it smooth (or relatively so – corrugations were a common feature). The scenery was small shrubs, with the occasional tree, and quite flat. Any watercourses were visible as lines of trees, growing either in the bed of the river/creek or next to them. However, don’t get over enthusiastic. These watercourses are ephemeral and only flow when there are rains. Usually this is many kilometres away, in Queensland or New South Wales. Sometimes they will flow as far as Lake Eyre (as at the moment) but more often they will just peter out in the middle of nowhere. Often there is water under the surface, and so in desperate times a deep hole in the river bed will yield water (not much and not clean, but drinkable in an emergency) the next morning – a soak! Crossing these watercourses can be simple, with a small drop into the bed and a small rise up the other side, or larger drops and rises and beds many kilometres wide! The firm soil on the plains is replaced by sandy or loose gravely material in the beds. This can make it interesting driving through them.
Soon the surrounding countryside had sandhills visible. It was easy to see how early explorers could have difficulty crossing, and lack of features would make navigations by landmarks very hard. Also, small hills and mesas popped up, eventually looking like breakaways as layers of gypsum gave a brown and white striped appearance.
After around two hundred kilometres from Marree, I passed Coopers Creek, which was a campsite as well as crossing facilities when a flood occurs. There are no bridges because of the remoteness and the low traffic density.
From here on, gibbers were evident. They are smallish but sharp-edged stones, difficult to walk over and problematic to drive over. As the roads use local material, these gibbers are on the road and can cause damage to tyres (as I found out later).
After another few kilometres I arrived at Mungerannie Roadhouse. It was in the afternoon and I ordered a hamburger for lunch, eating it there and being met by … two pilots from Marree (and therefore Phillip Island), who had driven up with fuel for a stop up the road. After chatting with a few others (including a girl from Sheffield, England, who was working there), I headed off, with not much over three hundred kilometres to go.
The scenery was interesting but not too varied, but driving was slow. Wheel pads had been worn, but this created mounds of stones between them – and some stones were sizeable, approaching one hundred millimeters in size. Resting on crowns of up to two hundred millimeters put them at the height of my car’s sump, gearbox and fuel tank. Driving was mainly trying to avoid them, so it was about eighty kilometres per hour most of the way.
By dusk I was still about seventy kilometres out of Birdsville, but the road was sand on a clay base, so I went a bit faster. Just when I thought I was going well, a car ahead left so much dust that I had to slow down and travel at the same speed.
I got to Birdsville just after 1800 and stopped at the Birdsville Pub. There was room at the inn, but the tariff was higher than I expected – to be precise, it was about the same cost as a hotel room in NewYork! I went to the caravan park and got a room for a more reasonable charge. After unpacking at getting things ready, I went to the “camp kitchen” to sit and write. I wrote three postcards (my own) and finished one letter. I ended up having a chat with the other couples who were reading and talking there. After that, I went off to bed.
Next morning it was up and over to have a shower, back to get dressed and have a cup of tea. After a walk around the park, I sat in the “camp kitchen” again and ran into some more interesting characters, including a couple from Northam who had been waiting to a gearbox part before they could go on. At 0830 I packed and left. Down the street I posted the letter and postcards so they would have a Birdsville postmark and then called into the Birdsville Bakery to get something for breakfast. I took a photo of the pub, but beware – photos depicting a lonely pub are wrong, as there is a large, modern airstrip opposite in one direction and a petrol station (and the post office) opposite in another direction. However, what I got was not to my taste and nothing to write home about – so I won’t. I filled up with petrol (much cheaper than at Marree or Mungerannie) and then headed off back to Marree. The plan was to get to Marree and spend the night there, then look for a sightseeing flight. I was stopping for photos along the way and started at the Birdsville Racecourse. Just after was a sign for the beginning of the Birdsville Track. I headed out a little slower, seventy-five kilometres per hour so I could stop when I wanted, quickly. Also … DISASTER – a warning message came up on the panel – check power train! (I did check and it was still there, but the message stayed)
All was going well for a time and I passed Mungerannie early, so didn’t stop in for lunch. I stopped at a number of places and was only about an hour out from Marree at 1450 when … DISASTER! The sound of the car had altered and I pulled up to find my rear right tyre was flat, from a cut right on the edge of the tread. Fortunately I carry a full-size spare, so it was take a blanket out from the boot, unpack everything (the spare is underneath) and get the equipment and tyre out. Then came the problem of undoing the wheel nuts, but as I had taught the kids at a school where I had run a course in car care, I stood on the handle of the driving tool (can’t call pressed steel a spanner) to loosen them. A couple from Adelaide stopped and the man kept raising the jack for me as I finally replaced the tyre. Another couple pulled up, but one car had just gone by without even slowing, covering me with dust. I repacked the boot, shaking the dust off and then did the same with the blanket, ruing the fact that if the car had slowed, I wouldn’t have to do that.
My plans suddenly altered. No spare meant I had to be more careful driving (OK) but also that it would cost me to replace it, so no spare cash for sightseeing flights. After I arrived in Marree, I filled up with petrol and decided I would go back to Adelaide (and my sister’s place) for the night. As dusk fell I headed south to Lyndhurst and ultimately the sealed road. Just after Lyndhurst, I came across a few kangaroos, most of whom cleared the road (I have three shoo roos on the bull bar) but a joey just stood there. I had to stop and yell at him to move (he was only about eighty centimetres tall). It started to shower, then rain, so travel was a little slower than expected.
I arrived in Port Augusta about 2030 and had dinner, then headed off to arrive at my sister’s place about 2345.
Trip over!
Photos at http://www.flickr.com/photos/dougmullett/sets/72157620397339826/

Thursday, June 18, 2009

Summary

After relating my adventures during 2008 while travelling around the world (including Tasmania, U.S., Canada, England, France, Spain, Andorra, Italy, Austria, Germany, Denmark, Holland, Belgium, Japan, Finland, Norway, Sweden, Russia, China, Mongolia, Turkey, Egypt and New Zealand), I'm now home-bound.
I will be travelling a little at first, then more later when I (finally, if and when the GFC finishes and investments become worth something again) purchase a motorhome to tour my home country in some style and comfort, and certainly at leisure.

At the moment I will detail such trips as my usual excursions to Adelaide and Perth (taken in my Commodore, DOUG) and one-off trips to visit old (not necessarily aged!) and new friends and occasional new places.

The first will be Birdsville (I hope) as the weather is cool and the road is supposed to be dry and passable by all vehicles.

Photos will be posted on Flickr in the collection Birdsville.

Any questions can be directed to my email and I'll answer as soon as possible. I am very familiar with my own country and its peculiarities, so I may gloss over or assume that people know things unfamiliar to them. If there are questions, I'll answer them in detail in another, later entry.